© Brastock Images/Getty Images Woman applying oil to her faceThe terms "hydrate" and "hydrate" are often used interchangeably in the skincare world. You may notice this while browsing through the cosmetics section of your local pharmacy. This is largely due to the fact that, as cosmetics chemist Vince Spinato told Allure, "Marketing terms can be defined by brands however they want."
With little regulation of terminology, it can be difficult to distinguish what is right and what is wrong. The issues of hydration and hydration, especially when it comes to facial oils, are very important. Contrary to the advertising label, facial oils cannot hydrate the skin. This should probably be included in a beginner's guide to facials.
Have you ever heard the saying "water off the goose"? Although this phrase refers to a person who is not affected by advice or constructive criticism, your mind is essentially noting that the water will not fly off the goose. Slide right away. The same can be said about oil. All you have to do is try mixing the oil with the water so they don't mix. So how does face oil work? What do they actually do for your skin?
Oils hold moisture, they don't add it.
© Polina Lebed/Getty Images Woman with facial oilFacial oils and moisturizing versus moisturizing cannot be discussed without understanding a few key terms: emollients, moisturizers, and occlusives. You've probably seen a combination of all or more of these terms in the skin care products you own. Humectants, usually glycerin or hyaluronic acid, work by drawing moisture from the environment and skin to provide hydration.
Facial oils can retain existing moisture (absorb) and soften the skin (soften), but they cannot hydrate. As dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Tanzi told The Cut, “They (facial oils) put a protective layer on the skin, covering the top layer. It's different than painting with water and moisturizing the skin." So imagine the scenario of wrapping your face in plastic wrap – facial oils really do just that. They retain existing moisture, but do not moisturize.
In fact, according to Dr. Melissa Kanchanapumi Levin (via Harper's Bazaar), New York-based dermatologist and founder of Entier Dermatology, "...many people who only use oils are actually dehydrated or have a broken skin barrier." All of these uses of oil are under threat.” Does this mean you need to cut out oils completely? NO. But there is a correct way to use them.
Mix your facial oil with your facial moisturizer.
If you're looking for a remedy for dehydrated skin, it's best to pair your face oil with a moisturizer like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. As Levine told Harper's Bazaar, oils alone cannot "moisturize or repair the skin barrier." This is the last step in your skincare routine, as long as you wear sunscreen (which is recommended).
Start by cleansing your face with a mild cleanser. Then, while your face is damp, apply a moisturizing serum (or cream) containing glycerin or hyaluronic acid. Then comes the facial oil, which can lock in moisture.
Cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson told Allure the focus should be "finding products that do both: humectants that can attract water and emollients that help lock in moisture." Sometimes it can feel like you're using two different products, and in some cases, you can find both in one.
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