© Getty/Shana Novak An AZ dictionary of all the popular skincare ingredients you need to knowInnovative and effective skin care ingredients appear regularly, but there are a number of items that are constantly mentioned in formulations. Like cooking recipes, skin care products are made from different ingredients. Each serves a specific purpose - Hyaluronic Acid plumps, Glycerin moisturizes, Salicylic Acid fights acne, and Vitamin C brightens - and plays an important role in the overall formulation of the product. More than any other beauty category, skincare is high-tech, which has a positive impact on results, but can sometimes be difficult to understand unless you are familiar with all of the ingredients and their benefits. That's why we've created a glossary of terms every skincare lover should know.
If you're ever muttering, what is niacinamide? Or are you skeptical about the difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids? The background information will be helpful to you. Think of it as your dictionary for all skincare ingredients. The world of skincare is complex, but with these terms in your vocabulary, it becomes a lot easier.
Read on for a comprehensive glossary to help you remember common ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol, and vitamin C for skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, abbreviated as AHA, are a class of water-soluble exfoliating acids that come from animal or plant products (like sugar, milk, and fruit). Examples of alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid. It increases cell renewal and stimulates collagen production, making your skin more radiant and smooth.
amino acids
Amino acids are organic compounds that play an important role in normal bodily functions. Amino acids moisturize, reduce inflammation, promote collagen growth, repair damaged skin cells, reduce signs of aging and more. Peptides are an example of an amino acid.
antioxidants
Antioxidants are molecules that help neutralize cell-damaging free radicals (also called unstable molecules) in your body. Examples of antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E, ferulic acid and niacinamide. Helps fight free radicals internally and externally from environmental factors such as smoke and pollution.
azelaic acid
Azelaic acid, derived from grains and grains, is a naturally occurring compound in the dicarboxylic acid family. Its benefits include anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it ideal for acne and rosacea. It doesn't exfoliate the skin like most skin care acids, but it does help treat skin discoloration.
bakuchiol
Bakuchiol — or phyto-retinol as it's sometimes called — is a plant extract that has similar benefits to retinol. The main difference between the two ingredients is that bakuchiol is much milder and is therefore often preferred by sensitive skin. The plant-based alternative also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
benzoyl peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a popular anti-acne ingredient that attacks the bacteria that cause pimples deep within your pores. Although it gives your skin some exfoliation, it's mostly touted for its ability to treat and prevent acne.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Beta Hydroxy Acids, also known as BHAs, are oil-soluble exfoliating acids that break down dirt, bacteria, and oil deep within your pores, making them great for treating acne. Besides the more well-known example, salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, tropic acid, and trichocanic acid are also beta-hydroxy acids.
tiles
Ceramides are lipids, i.e. molecules that make up the function of living cells. It is essential for healthy, hydrated skin as ceramides help heal and protect the skin barrier. When the skin barrier is compromised, it can cause redness, irritation, dryness, and discomfort. In addition, ceramides help your skin look younger and feel softer and smoother.
citric acid
Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits such as lemons and limes. It belongs to the AHA range and is ideal for unclogging pores, fading hyperpigmentation and moisturizing the skin.
ectoine
Ectoin is commonly used as an emollient in skin care formulations and has moisturizing properties. It can be of synthetic or natural origin.
exosomes
Exosomes are derived from human stem cells and can be used in two different ways: in skin care products or injected directly into the skin. It is still in the early stages of research, but it has positive effects on hair loss and anti-aging.
ferulic acid
Ferulic acid, which comes from oats, apples, brown rice, and oranges, is an antioxidant. Because of this, it helps protect the skin from pollution and UV damage. It is also beneficial for increasing skin firmness and elasticity, reducing inflammation and lightening dark spots.
glycerin
Glycerin is an excellent ingredient for moisturizing your skin because it is a humectant (meaning it attracts water from the air) that locks in moisture in your skin. As a natural ingredient derived from vegetable oils and animal fats, it is ideal for caring for the skin barrier.
glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an example of an alpha hydroxy acid. Because of its small molecular size, it can penetrate deeper into the skin than other alpha hydroxy acids, making it effective in rejuvenating skin, treating acne scars, lightening discoloration and reducing signs of aging.
hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that contains 1000 times its weight in water. It is a natural substance in our body, especially in our joints and skin, that acts as a moisturizer and is ideal for wound healing and skin softening.
lactic acid
As the name suggests, lactic acid comes from milk and belongs to the family of alpha hydroxy acids. It is gentler than glycolic acid due to its larger molecular size, but offers similar benefits such as resurfacing, cleaning pores and locking in moisture.
malic acid
A member of the AHA family, Malic Acid is an exfoliating ingredient that promotes cell renewal, which helps lighten skin and treat acne. It does not penetrate the skin as deeply as other alpha hydroxy acids, making it more tolerable for sensitive skin.
mandelic acid
Like malic acid, mandelic acid is another alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin's surface, except this acid comes from almonds. It brightens uneven skin tones and smoothes rough textures by removing dead skin cells.
niacinamide
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3, which is an essential nutrient for your body. It occurs naturally in animal or plant products such as seeds and leafy green vegetables as nicotinic acid. Niacinamide skincare benefits include fighting inflammation, reducing redness, retaining moisture in the skin, increasing the skin's natural lipids, minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing excessive sebum production, fighting breakouts , smoothing uneven textures and brightening skin tone.
oxybenzone
Oxybenzone is an active ingredient commonly found in chemical sunscreens that is absorbed through the skin to filter out UV rays. Though the chemical is approved by the Food and Drug Administration, it's controversial because research shows it can disrupt hormone levels in animals and harm coral reefs.
peptides
Peptides, also called polypeptides, are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin in the skin. In skincare, peptides are a super active with a long list of benefits, including anti-aging, healing, and anti-inflammatory properties.
polyglutamic acid
Polyglutamic acid is classified as a peptide. It is a natural, biodegradable polymer produced by fermentation. It's made up of a special type of chain amino acid called glutamic acid, which is great for moisturizing the skin.
retinol
Retinol, also known as Vitamin A, is a popular skincare ingredient that can do it all: lighten dark spots and hyperpigmentation, treat acne, smooth fine lines, improve skin elasticity, exfoliate, and prevent scarring at the first signs of aging. Retinol is available in higher concentrations over the counter or by prescription. Due to its strength, it may cause irritation upon first use.
salicylic acid;
Salicylic acid, a BHA, is a gentle exfoliating ingredient derived from willow bark that's commonly used to fight acne. It has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and is excellent for resurfacing the skin, leaving skin smoother, more radiant, purer and more even.
squalene
Squalene is a pure, odorless, non-comedogenic oil. It is obtained from wheat germ, palm kernels and olives. It is ideal for treating dry patches and eczema and has the ability to soothe, moisturize and deliver antioxidants to the skin.
succinic acid
Succinic Acid is a best-in-class skincare acid made from two main groups of acids, Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids. Derived from amber and sugar cane, it has antimicrobial and antioxidant properties and can reduce oil production, treat acne and reduce fine lines.
tartaric acid
Tartaric acid belongs to the family of alpha hydroxy acids - it is derived from fruits such as grapes, bananas and citrus fruits. In addition to exfoliating the skin, benefits also include moisturizing, promoting healing and reducing signs of aging.
tranexamic acid
Tranexamic acid was originally a prescription drug that mimics lysine, a natural amino acid in the body. It is used today as a pigmentation and skin lightening treatment.
vitamin C
Vitamin C is a favorite in the skincare world because it lightens hyperpigmentation, strengthens collagen, and delivers antioxidants to the skin. Found in a variety of fruits and vegetables, the vitamin protects against environmental influences such as UV rays and pollution.