Vitamin C, Retinol, Biotin? Heres What Your Skin Actually Needs

Vitamin C, Retinol, Biotin? Heres What Your Skin Actually Needs

As the largest organ in the body, it is natural for the skin to stay healthy and clean. Vanity is also a powerful motivator - humans may have evolved to analyze other people's skin to determine their health (and attractiveness).

It keeps the business growing. The skincare industry was valued at $133.9 billion in 2018 and is expected to be worth $200.25 billion by 2026.

With an ever-growing list of skincare products featuring a variety of trending ingredients, it can be difficult to determine what we really need to care for our skin.

Experts explain how our skin protects us, how we keep it intact, and what's fun (but not essential) to incorporate into your routine.

skin biology

The "skin barrier" is made up of skin cells and the interconnected systems of proteins and lipids that surround and connect them. This wall acts as the first line of defense against outside threats, whether it be toxic chemicals or infectious agents such as bacteria.

"The building blocks are skin cells, and the mortar is a skin barrier of proteins and lipids," says Mona Gohara, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.

The skin barrier not only prevents unwanted substances from entering, but is also important for retaining some essential elements such as water. When the skin barrier doesn't have enough water, it dries out and damages the lipid bonds that connect skin cells. This allows unwanted elements to enter and cause skin conditions such as dermatitis and psoriasis.

We damage our skin barrier every day with routines like showering too long (which can dry out the skin) and shaving (which can damage the barrier).

Do you need to supplement your diet or water intake to maintain healthy skin?

Water intake and diet of the average person is sufficient to maintain healthy skin.

Supplements like biotin are marketed to help protect your skin, but Devina Mehta, a resident of dermatology at Cornell University, says most people don't need it — a balanced diet keeps your skin healthy by increasing your mental and physical health support. support

You don't have to drink water throughout the day - you just need enough so you don't become dehydrated.

"For healthy skin, I don't recommend a lot of water," says Dr. Jules Lipf, professor of dermatology at the Lewis Katz School of Medicine. "You have to be very dehydrated to really affect the skin."

Do you really need skin care products?

What the average person without skin problems really needs to do is keep the skin barrier intact. This can usually be achieved with three products: cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

"Our skin has a self-hydrating, self-exfoliating, and protective mechanism," says Gohara. "But it still needs to be fixed. It will not happen by itself. You have to make an active effort to maintain the skin's natural processes that are already there."

Gohara recommends a mild non-soap detergent that will remove irritants like dirt without the harshness of regular soap. He explains that soap has a high pH, ​​which can weaken the skin barrier, allowing irritants to penetrate and causing inflammation. Soap-free cleaning agents are often labeled with information such as "soap-free," "soap-free," "sulfate-free," or "pH neutral."

To feel clean, it may be tempting to scrub every inch of your body in the shower, but that can do more harm than good. "That's enough to get the water flowing," says Lipoff. "You don't need to exfoliate. It does it on its own, no help is needed.

Hydration is also an important factor in keeping the skin barrier intact as it limits water loss. Skin has a natural way of retaining moisture, but when we dry it out from hot showers or exposure to cold, dry weather, we need help, says Gohara. Lipoff advises her patients to apply moisturizer to damp skin to increase its effectiveness.

You should also use sunscreen, as unprotected UV exposure can dry out the skin and increase the risk of skin cancer. By using sunscreen, "you reduce skin damage in many ways," says Gohara. This is a beneficial fruit.”

( Answer your sunscreen question .)

Dermatologists know that not all skin is the same and some people can experience skin barrier disorders such as acne, eczema or rosacea. "Often sufferers need additional therapies or products to help them," says Angelo Landricina, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

Some topical treatments, such as those using benzoyl peroxide to treat acne, can irritate the skin further and require a heavier moisturizer to repair and strengthen the barrier, says Gohara.

What are some useful additions to your skincare routine?

Once the skin barrier is intact and protected, secondary issues like anti aging can be taken care of.

Hyaluronic acid, for example, is a valuable but not essential ingredient to look out for. It helps retain water and plump skin. "It's a material that I really love and everyone is talking about it for a reason. There's an extraordinary element to it," says Landricina.

People often look for anti aging products as soon as wrinkles or dark spots appear on their skin. But the most effective anti-aging practices start before the damage occurs, especially with sunscreen, says Landricina.

In addition to sunscreens and other sunscreens, retinol (vitamin A) and retinoids (derivatives of the same vitamin) are also useful adjuncts for discoloration or wrinkles. "They have long been at the forefront of the skincare zeitgeist because they are so effective and well-researched," she says. "But that's completely unnecessary."

For those looking to lessen the effects of sun damage, Mehta recommends a vitamin C serum in the morning and a retinol at night. "These products help brighten skin, lighten dark spots, and stimulate collagen production," she says.

While these ingredients are beneficial, they can be harmful if used incorrectly. Mehta recommends talking to a dermatologist to see if the product is right for you.

"You don't want to go out and buy something just because it's new or trendy, or a friend likes it, or you've heard about it on social media." You meet should be based on the results you want to achieve. ”

10 Reasons Why Your Retinol Isn't Working | Dermatology @DrDrayzday

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