Smooth, tight, blemish-free skin is at the top of many wish lists. While some people naturally have fair skin and an even complexion, others work hard to achieve it.
Several factors affect the amount of pigment your skin produces, resulting in an even or uneven skin tone. So whether you've spent too many summer days in the sun or your hormone levels have caused melasma to immediately appear, uneven skin tone can be frustrating, especially when the rest of your skin is in great shape. . The key to preventing uneven skin tone is to control the factors that stimulate excess melanin production.
Below, three dermatologists share their proven solutions for preventing uneven skin tone and treating it when it becomes a problem.
What is uneven skin tone?
Uneven skin tone, which can affect any skin color and type, lacks color uniformity. Melanin gives the skin its pigment, but too much of it can cause spots called hyperpigmentation. Blemishes, rashes or spots are also considered uneven skin tone. Uneven skin tone is usually, but not always, associated with a rough or dry texture.
The main cause of uneven skin
There is no single cause for uneven skin; A combination of factors can cause skin discoloration. According to dermatologist Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, sun exposure is the most common cause of uneven skin. “The sun's UV rays stimulate melanin production, and overexposure to the sun can lead to uneven pigmentation,” she explains. The sun also negatively affects the structure of the skin.
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While we'd like to think that the sun is solely to blame for uneven skin, that's not the case. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which occurs after skin inflammation, usually acne, eczema, rashes, wounds or burns, causes further scarring. Darkening of the affected area due to increased melanin production. Board-certified dermatologist Monica Kiripolsky adds that hormonal imbalances or fertility treatments during pregnancy can lead to melasma (the mask of pregnancy), which is dark, flaky patches and spots.
Certain medical conditions, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) or Addison's disease, can also affect hormonal balance and contribute to pigmentation problems. Margarita Lolis, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, says lifestyle choices and external environmental factors, including pollution, sun exposure, smoking, injury and poor diet, can contribute to hyperpigmentation. “Any external factor of oxidative stress and increased production of melanin and melanocytes affects skin tone,” he adds. On the other hand, some skin conditions, such as psoriasis, vitiligo and some types of dermatitis, can cause areas of hypopigmentation where the skin lacks melanin.
As the skin naturally ages, the rate of cell turnover begins to slow, causing a buildup of dead cells and decreased collagen production. Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says this combination can lead to a dull complexion and uneven skin tone.
According to Dr. Kiripolsky, uneven skin tone can occur at any time in life. “It is more common in women due to hormonal imbalances that typically occur during pregnancy and menopause,” she says. “Discoloration of inflamed acne can begin in adolescence and continue until age 40. And uneven skin color due to sun exposure starts with age spots and manifests as large sunspots in the 2030s and beyond.”
How to Avoid Uneven Skin Tone
The skin gods don't dictate uneven skin tone, and there's a lot you can do to avoid unwanted pigment. “Regular skin care can prevent and correct uneven skin tone,” says Dr. Lawlis.
Sunscreen is essential because the sun is enemy number one. As the doctor explained. Lawlis, UV-induced DNA damage and oxidative stress induce melanin production during a process called melanogenesis, which occurs in the melanocyte cells responsible for producing melanin. Sunscreen blocks UVA and UVB rays from entering the skin, thereby reducing oxidative stress, DNA damage and melanogenesis.
It can also worsen conditions such as rosacea, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Using sunscreen daily helps protect your skin from harmful UV rays and prevent the formation or worsening of hyperpigmentation, sun spots, freckles and melasma. Find a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 or higher and reapply it every two hours. Our pick is Julep No Excuses Invisible Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Gel for Face SPF 40 ($28), which contains rosehip oil, which also helps the skin.
Regular cleansing, exfoliation, antioxidant protection and hydration should also be included in a comprehensive skin care routine. Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says gentle exfoliation removes dead skin cells, prevents the formation of pigment cells, and reveals fresh skin cells. "It's also important to hydrate your skin to maintain its barrier function and prevent dryness and irritation, which can contribute to uneven pigmentation," she adds. Since free radicals are responsible for uneven skin tone, using an antioxidant-rich serum rich in vitamin C, like Alastin Skincare's C-Radical Defense Antioxidant Serum ($178), will help reduce excess pigmentation.
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Try ingredients and procedures
Even if you try your best to avoid bleaching, unwanted pigmentation can still accumulate on your skin.
Blocking melanin synthesis is key to treating uneven skin tone. Dermatologists often prescribe hydroquinone, retinol, kojic acid, and tranexamic acid to control melanin production. “However, hydroquinone, a bleaching agent, can be irritating, does not stain, and is not always effective because it has difficulty penetrating the skin,” explains Dr. Lolley. “Recent studies have shown that tranexamic acid has a hypopigmenting effect due to its mechanism of action. Inflammatory mediators and metabolites released during coagulation can stimulate melanin production,” he explains. “Tranexamic acid slows and inhibits the breakdown of clots, so levels of clot metabolites that cause melanogenesis are reduced.” Other ingredients include vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which address pigmentation issues by promoting exfoliation, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.
Chemical peeling at home, as the doctor said. Lancer Caviar Acid Lime Peel ($99), which uses glycolic, salicylic, lactic, tranexamic, and kojic acids, can also help exfoliate the top layer of skin for renewal. To reduce cellular hyperpigmentation and. But if your skin needs something stronger, make an appointment with your dermatologist for a medical-grade exfoliating chemical peel. Professional chemical peels and other exfoliation treatments help remove pigmented layers of skin, revealing a more even tone, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.
Lasers such as intense pulsed light (IPL, which is more effective at reducing redness and brown pigmentation) and Moxi and Fraxel (for deeper pigmentation) are also effective in correcting uneven skin pigmentation by breaking down excess melanin. Dr. Lawlis adds that picosecond Nd:YAG lasers are well suited for treating individual sunspots. “It uses short bursts of energy to break down melanin into tiny particles that the skin can absorb,” he says. “Think about breaking a rock in the sand that will slowly wash away. »
CO2 and Erbium resurfacing lasers improve uneven skin tone by removing damaged layers of skin and promoting collagen remodeling for improved skin quality. Radiofrequency microneedling treatments can also help improve firmness and uneven skin texture. No matter what treatment your dermatologist thinks is best for improving uneven skin tone, Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says, “Consistency is key and results can take time.”