You may not have heard of it (or don't know how to pronounce it), but bakuchiol is making a big splash in the collagen-boosting skincare space. Basically, it's a great ingredient in new retinol alternatives without the redness, irritation, and redness often associated with traditional retinoids. Based on this treatment, bakuchiol has long been used in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, explains London-based beauty expert Diya Ayodele. However, it is now touted as a natural retinoid in Western skin care research.
What is bakuhyol and how does it work?
“Bakuhiol is a compound found naturally in the seeds and leaves of the psoralen religious plant from the Indian subcontinent,” Ayodele explains. “It stimulates collagen production and thus keeps the skin firm and healthy, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It has also been shown to significantly reduce the presence of skin damage caused by UV rays, such as hyperpigmentation.
“It is derived from bocochi seed oil, which is commonly used in medicinal plants for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” added David Delport, global ambassador for Ren Clean Skincare. “In skin care, it acts as a retinoid analogue, meaning it mimics the effects of retinol, such as stimulating cell turnover, fighting dark spots, and tightening the skin.”
“Bakuchiol has actually been used as a skincare ingredient for many years for anti-inflammatory and antioxidant purposes, which is why they're taking a closer look at it,” Delport says. “It does not mimic the composition of retinol, but its effect on the skin is very similar, as it stimulates retinoid receptors responsible for the synthesis of type I collagen in the dermis. It also stimulates skin cell renewal for a smooth surface, providing retinol without irritation.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol - Which is Better?
“Although bakuchiol has a different chemical structure to retinol, it appears to act on similar cellular pathways and target genes, such as collagen regulation,” explains consultant dermatologist Justin Cloke.
A 2018 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology found that bakuchiol is similar to retinol in its ability to reduce signs of skin aging and is better tolerated. For 12 weeks, 44 patients received 0.5 percent facohyol cream twice daily or 0.5 percent retinol cream every evening. “Researchers found that retinol and bakuchiol had similar effects on wrinkles and pigmentation, but bakuchiol reduced peeling, stinging, burning, and itching,” says Klock.