Dermaplaning is a popular procedure that removes peach spots and dead skin cells from the face, leaving the complexion soft and smooth. TikTok is currently taking the term by storm with 3.8 billion views, but that doesn't mean it's a passing trend on social media. Celebrities like Eva Mendes and Gwyneth Paltrow have praised the product on the red carpet, with Mendes noting on Instagram that it "makes applying makeup and moisturizer much easier." However, it is controversial whether this procedure causes hair to grow faster, thicker and darker. So, is dermaplaning worth it and should you include it in your skincare routine?
Below you will find everything you need to know.
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What is dermaplaning?
“Dermaplaning is a non-invasive cosmetic procedure that uses a surgical scalpel to gently remove the top layer of dead skin cells and velvety hair,” explains Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, Skin Specialist and Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic. Velvet hair removal, also called peach hair removal, is key to the effectiveness of dermaplaning as it gives the skin a shiny and silky appearance.
Can dermaplaning be done at home?
As with most procedures, visiting a salon yields the best results. “Clinical treatments will still be performed using a laser-cut scalpel blade, whereas at home blades will be blunter,” explains esthetician David Jack, who has been offering this technique as part of his Egyptian facials for years. “Do-it-yourself dermaplaning carries a higher risk of accidents,” adds Dr. Ejikeme added.
Despite the risks, many people still enjoy dermaplaning at home. If you want to take it a step further, be sure to use a razor specifically designed for dermaplaning (see Vogue's recommended options below) and hold it at a 45-degree angle while shaving your face in a downward motion. First, make sure your skin is clean and keep it in place. Above all, don't overdo it or you could endanger your skin's most important barrier.
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning offers a number of benefits beyond hair removal. Not only is it painless, but it can also lighten dull skin and improve uneven skin texture. Fortunately, the effect is also immediate; Your skin will look younger as soon as you leave the salon.
What are the dangers of dermaplaning?
When performed in a clinic, the risks of dermaplaning are minimal. However, explains Dr. Ejikeme that “people with active acne or sensitive skin may experience redness, irritation, or blistering after dermaplaning,” which is why it is best to avoid this treatment. Dr. Jack also points out that “someone who has an infection or broken skin would not benefit from dermaplaning,” as it can compromise the skin barrier. In addition, there will be no minor temporary redness or dryness during the procedure, and a trained doctor will ensure that there is no risk of minor cuts or punctures in the skin.
How often should the dermaplane be used?
“For a professional peel, we typically recommend two to four sessions two to four weeks apart, followed by one treatment session every four to eight weeks,” says Debbie Thomas, skin expert and MD, facialist. Dua Lipa. Monthly dermaplaning ensures a radiant, even complexion and gives your skin enough time to recover between treatments.
What should you do before and after dermaplaning?
Avoid any active ingredients like retinol or acids five days before the procedure and "avoid any other skin care or hair removal treatments one to two weeks beforehand," advises Thomas. After exfoliating, moisturize your skin, apply SPF daily (as usual), and "avoid excessive heat or exfoliation for at least three days," she notes. Avoid makeup the day after the procedure to allow your skin to breathe. "It's also important to use clean makeup brushes and products to prevent bacteria from being transferred to freshly exfoliated skin," adds Dr. Ejikeme added.
Can dermaplaning make hair thicker and faster?
“Dermaplaning only removes hair from the surface of the skin. It does not affect the hair follicle or change the growth pattern underneath,” says the doctor. Ejikeme for us. This means, no, your hair doesn't grow faster or thicker. Vellus hair can't "get thicker," says Dr. Jack, and there's no danger of it getting darker.