© Provided by The Zoe ReportA few years ago, FYP creators had dramatic home makeovers in at least half of their TikTok beauty videos, emphasizing that beauty hurts! More recently, however, TikTokers' approach to skincare has shifted, shifting the focus from harsh cleansers that promise instant baby-soft results and a radiant glow to slow, gentle products that focus on the moisture barrier and long-term skincare. Health. This TikTok evolution of skincare tips in the name of "Strengthening Skin Barrier," a video you've probably heard once (or twice) from your favorite creator.
Movement also takes place offline. Several skin care brands are launching products with "skin barrier" in the name. The sheer volume of creator demos and videos begs the question: is the moisture barrier focus just a TikTok fad like the dozens before it? (See underarm masks.) Or is this a long-term shift in how we view skin as a whole? To find out, TKR spoke to two dermatologists to properly explain how the moisture barrier works, how it relates to the skin's barrier, and the best barrier health products to try.
What is the difference between the skin barrier and the moisture barrier?
Brands and customers use the two terms interchangeably. So what exactly is the difference between a skin protectant and a moisture barrier? This is mostly just semantics as the moisture barrier helps protect the skin barrier. “The skin consists of five layers. The moisture barrier is the outer layer," says Dr. Aanand N. Geria, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Rutherford, NJ. Protects your skin's natural oils, nutrients and moisture. "A moisture barrier is essential to protect skin and keep out harmful bacteria, environmental stressors and other irritants."
DR. Lindsey Zubritsky, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Ocean Springs, MS, who recently spoke at Glow Recipe's Skin Barrier Health Summit in LA, says she believes the moisture barrier is made of skin bricks and duct tape. "Skin cells are bricks and mortar are ceramides and glue," he says. "Moisture barrier refers to the ceramic and adhesive parts that protect the skin."
Why is the skin barrier so important?
Think of your skin's barrier (and therefore its moisture barrier) as your first line of defense against immediate, long-term skin damage. "The skin barrier protects against external threats such as chemicals, infectious agents, systemic toxicity, and allergens," says Dr. geria. "This helps maintain homeostasis and prevents the body from losing water and becoming dehydrated."
Without this barrier, there would be no way to keep skin healthy, and healthy skin keeps moisture and pollution out.
How is the microbiome related to the skin barrier?
“Microbiome” is another word you've probably seen in skincare, and there's a good reason for that. "On top of the skin barrier lives the microbiome, which is made up of good bacteria and bad bacteria, and they all live in homeostasis in this balance," says Dr. Zubritsky: "If this balance is disturbed, your skin barrier can be damaged by mutual feeding."
In short, when you have an imbalanced microbiome, the skin barrier breaks down. (More on that in a moment.)
© Provided by The Zoe ReportHow is the skin barrier damaged?
It appears that TikTokers are beginning to better understand the protective role of skin - and the damage it can prevent - in order to take better care of it. "[Heavy peels] may promise to help with discoloration and fine lines and wrinkles, but in doing so you're doing more damage to your skin and creating more wrinkles and discoloration because the issue is so aggressive," says Dr. Zubritsky.
In addition to exfoliating the ears, ear cleaning can cause a damaged moisture barrier by ridding the microbiome of natural oils and good bacteria. "There are also products with harsh ingredients like baking soda, alcohol, and fragrance," says Dr. Geria In addition to harsh products, common causes of moisture barrier breakdown are genetics, age, and environmental factors such as sun exposure and pollution, many of which are beyond our control. Dr. Zubritsky is quick to add that smoking and vaping can also break down barriers.
What are the symptoms of a damaged skin barrier?
If you're on the "skin repair" train, you probably know what a damaged skin barrier feels like, and it's not great. The skin is very sensitive, even light care formulas sting when applied. It can be dry, red, and you can even break out, whether you normally have acne or not. "If you have severe [acne] and can't control it, it could be because your skin barrier is damaged," says Dr. Zubritsky.
However, if you notice any of these symptoms, it is possible to completely improve and prevent this condition.
To protect the skin barrier
The silver coating allows you to protect the skin barrier from natural damage. This includes using sunscreen every day, washing your face with a gentle cleanser and applying a good moisturizer. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, look for a lightweight, gel-based moisturizer that won't clog pores.
Also, there are several skin barrier strengthening ingredients found in all of these new moisturizers, cleansers and serums. Look out for: humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which bind water and retain moisture; emollients such as rosehip seed oil and petroleum jelly to prevent water loss; Antioxidants such as vitamins C, E and B3 to neutralize free radicals; and ceramides that help lock in moisture.
Final verdict? Dermatologists agree: the skin barrier/moisture trend is going nowhere. And that's good. "I don't see how it should go away or when it should go away because it improves the health of your skin, which is what we all want in the end," says Dr. Zubitsky. "It's just about adjusting and focusing what we have and not adding unnecessary things."
Dr. Geria has seen this “less is more” trend accelerate during the COVID-19 lockdown. "People take care of their skin at home and because they're too keen, a lot of them damage the barrier by using too many products or acids that are too strong for their skin," she says. "As a result, there are tons of videos [on TikTok] about how to heal a damaged skin barrier." This shows that our skin hasn't changed, but the product has, with a higher active ingredient content.
As a result, the tide begins to turn. "Consumers are looking for products that don't heal quickly, but maintain skin health over the long term without damaging sensitive skin," she adds.
Buy the best skin protection products
Avocado Ceramide Moisture Barrier Cleanser
Recipe for shine
© Provided by The Zoe ReportRich premier cru cream
Caudalie
© Provided by The Zoe ReportUltra Advanced Face Repair Barrier Cream
kehl
© Provided by The Zoe ReportCeramidine Skin Barrier Moisturizer
DR. Start+
© Provided by The Zoe ReportTriple Lipid Peptide Barrier+ Lotion
skin repair
© Provided by The Zoe ReportMarshmallow Root Barrier Balm
naturally
© Provided by The Zoe ReportBioactive barrier treatment
your beauty
© Provided by The Zoe Report