Knowing how to properly exfoliate your face is important: it's an important step in skin care, but getting it wrong or using overly strong products can cause pain, sensitivity, and disruption of the skin's barrier.
Exfoliation is one of the most effective steps in any skin care routine—it helps remove dead skin cells, brightening and smoothing skin—and often has an immediate effect. "Gentle exfoliation once or twice a week to remove dead skin cells, makeup and sebum will reveal fresh, glowing skin underneath," says consultant dermatologist Dr Sharia Nasir. "Regular exfoliation helps reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and allows for better absorption of other active skincare ingredients."
The key to success is choosing the best facial scrub for your skin type. Why is sand scrub or traditional acid more effective? We asked dermatologists about the best way to exfoliate your face and how to choose the best method for you.
"Exfoliation is the process of removing dead cells from the surface layer of the skin using a chemical, abrasive, or exfoliating tool," explains Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist. “Follow the specific instructions for the product of your choice carefully and do not abuse it. Never exfoliate your skin if you have acne, active acne, or sunburned skin." Sun sensitivity is also a factor, which is why Dr. Phillips recommends exfoliating your skin in the evening and applying your best sunscreen to your face the next morning.
And why is learning to properly exfoliate your face so important? "Exfoliation is key to optimizing skin health because it promotes cell renewal and helps prevent skin problems such as pores, pimples, blackheads and whiteheads," explains Dr. Phillips. But if done incorrectly, "peeling can sometimes cause irritation, dryness and sometimes hyperpigmentation," she warns.
How to exfoliate your face with a scrub
How to exfoliate your face with a scrub is quite simple. It is usually a cream or gel formula with fine sand particles, often fruit seeds or natural extracts such as rice or oats. The process is simple: apply the scrub to your skin with warm water in a circular motion, paying particular attention to dry areas.
Use these scrubs alone or as a second step to a double cleanse. Because exfoliants can be more abrasive than acids, they should be used less frequently, once a week is enough.
Our beauty editor recommends…
How to exfoliate your face with acid
Skin care acids come in liquid formulations, often bottled. You can also buy them as wet pads or tinted sprays. Alternatively, apply to a cotton pad and pat dry after cleansing skin. You can use a moisturizer, but avoid combining it with harsh active ingredients, especially retinol, as it will irritate the skin. As Dr. Phillips suggests, it's usually best to do this at night.
The form of acid you choose, AHA or BHA, is also important, as is the concentration. Glycolic acid is one of the best options, it dissolves skin cells in seconds. Choose a lower concentration to start with, as it may irritate some skin types. If you have acne-prone skin, use salicylic acid – BHA works great on blemishes. Dr. Phil recommends starting with a small patch before applying the product all over the face. Acid scrubs can be used 2-3 times a week depending on skin response.
Our beauty editor recommends…
How to do facial peels for beginners
Since peeling is quite dangerous and easy to overdo, we recommend using an acid. Especially, skin care products with PHA, as it is the mildest form of the acid. They have larger molecules than AHAs and BHAs, so they don't penetrate deep into skin cells. This means they're less likely to irritate, making them a great place to start.
Our beauty editor recommends…
What is the best way to exfoliate your face?
Both experts agree that chemical exfoliants are the best option to exfoliate. "Scrubs and acids use completely different exfoliation methods," says Dr. Phillips. "Scrubs mechanically remove dead skin and impurities, while chemicals gently dissolve them. Exfoliating acids are easy to control by choosing the right concentration of exfoliating agents."
Dr. Nazar is not a fan of physical exfoliators. "Brackets should be avoided because they can cause micro-cracks in the skin," he warns. "It irritates and damages the skin barrier." However, Dr Phillips still believes that weed has a place in your daily routine – it all depends on how you use it and which one you choose. "Yes, you can still use weed, but make sure you use them sparingly," he advises. “Avoid sharp-edged particles, such as grains or rice particles, and not pieces that scratch and abrade the skin's surface. Abrasive scrubs should be completely avoided as they break down the barrier and leave the skin exposed to over-dryness and even infection."
Physical VS Chemical Exfoliation
I'm with the experts: I think acid exfoliants are the most effective option. They are gentler but more effective and you can see results almost immediately.
The downside is that at first glance they are intimidating, especially with confusing abbreviations. Knowing how to exfoliate your face with acid doesn't come naturally to most people; It's not as simple as taking a scrub and using it to wash your face. However, once you understand the basics and decide whether glycolic or salicylic acid is right for you, your skin will thank you.
That's not to say that scrubs have faded from my bathroom—I have a couple that I like to alternate with when my skin gets particularly dry or dull. I especially love when products combine physical and chemical exfoliation for a double effect.
Our beauty editor recommends…
Do you exfoliate a wet or dry face?
Apply a physical exfoliator to a wet face like a daily cleanser. When it comes to chemical exfoliants, you can use them on a dry face or on a damp face if you just wash your face. According to Dr. Phillips, "Exfoliating damp skin after cleansing is recommended for a smooth procedure, but it's important to read the directions carefully and follow them exactly."