The use of topical skin lighteners, also known as skin whitening agents, has been controversial for years due to health concerns, including skin damage, and skin color discrimination, known as colorism.
And now, a new study published in the International Journal of Women's Dermatology has found that the products of this multibillion-dollar industry are popular among people of color.
So why are some skin lightening products harmful, and what does the use of these products say about hair color in the United States?
Below, experts analyze the data and explore the nuances of this new research.
What does the research say?
The study included a total of 455 people, mostly black women, a group that is disproportionately affected by coloring and the use of skin lightening products.
During the survey, more than 21% said they used a skin lightening agent; More than 73% of this group said they used it to treat skin conditions such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. However, almost 27% admitted to using brightening products to achieve clearer skin, says the doctor. "It's quite a big number," said Rupal V.
What's even more surprising, Kundu added, is that more than 45% of respondents admit they don't know what skin-lightening ingredients are in the products they use, which can have long-term health consequences.
"Some studies have shown that substances like mercury have this bleaching effect and are literally toxic," says Kundo. But these harmful effects go beyond the skin.
What are the main consequences?
Research has shown that people who use skin lightening products think more favorably of light skin tones than dark ones, which has negative consequences in the real world. Because research has shown that colorism "gives light-skinned people distinct advantages" because they appear European, thus Eurocentric standards of beauty, morality, intelligence, and status.
Experts say skin whitening is still a common problem worldwide. "If you look at the global numbers, it's pretty common," says Rachel Nazarian. "In many African countries and Southeast Asia, skin whitening has been part of their culture for over 100 years." A 2021 study found that 75% of Nigerian women use some kind of skin lightening product.
What do the experts think?
This is not the first study to link the use of skin lighteners to pigmentation. Other studies have found similar results, which Kundu says is an "unsurprising" correlation. "It's something that's [been shown] before," he says.
Although the results of the study are not conclusive, they are a useful way to assess the effects of color on behavior, especially in relation to skin health.
"I think it gave us a more accurate view of what [dermatologists] were talking about," Kundu said. "As a clinician or caregiver, it's important to understand this potential influence of color."
Nazarian says that while he's "concerned with the numbers," he hopes the study will encourage open conversations between dermatologists and patients about the role of color in skin discoloration claims. "It gives us a little touch of where we are as a culture, how we define beauty, and lets us figure out how we can improve," she says.
But as Kundu points out, not everyone who wants to lighten their skin usually goes to the doctor first, especially in the numbers seen in his research.
“I don't see a quarter of patients wanting to use skin lightening agents for general lightening. This means that most of these people do it themselves,” says Kundu.
why is it important
According to experts, irregular use of skin lightening products, especially those containing harmful substances like mercury, can lead to a number of health problems, including thinning of the skin and loss of skin elasticity.
"It can damage the overall health of the skin," says Nazaryan.
Using skin lighteners to achieve lighter skin is also seen as problematic, despite the numbers, and while studies show the United States is "doing well compared to the rest of the world," Nazarian says there's still room for improvement.
"It's a challenge for me," he says. Nazarian says the number of people in the U.S. who use skin-lightening products is "not huge" and adds that "it could be worse."
It's also worth noting that many people are afraid of using skin lighteners to change their overall skin tone, "most people who use skin lighteners use it for skin conditions," Kundu said. "And there are safe and effective ways to use skin lighteners in these situations."
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