From cleansers to creams and serums, the skin care aisle is full of products that promise to make our skin brighter, softer, younger and better. But which products are important and which are not? Should you spend the extra money on "pretty" cosmetics? Is sun protection really that important?
Researchers asked three UCSF dermatologists skincare questions to find out which products deserve a spot on our shopping lists.
Myth #Fault #1: As I age, I need to follow a complicated and expensive skin care regimen to keep my skin healthy.
In fact, along with sunscreen, a simple drugstore moisturizer is the most important item in your antiaging skin care routine, says Katrina Abuabara, MD, assistant professor of dermatology and eczema researcher at UCSF. Moisturizer protects the skin barrier, an important function of our body's largest organ.
As we age and our skin's immune cells become more exposed to toxins, allergens and pollutants, our skin's ability to act as a barrier diminishes, says Abuabara. It can cause mild skin inflammation with symptoms such as redness and dryness. Inflammatory immune cells in the skin can spread throughout the body, causing systemic inflammation that can lead to a number of serious health problems.
For example, patients with moderate to severe eczema, a skin condition characterized by an itchy, red rash, are more likely to have cardiovascular disease. Last year, Abuabara was the lead author of a study that found a 27 percent increased risk of dementia in adult patients with eczema.
For the elderly and those with dry skin, applying moisturizer is one of the best ways to prevent skin inflammation. Experts at UCSF and elsewhere are learning that using a moisturizer can actually ease inflammation-related problems beyond the skin. Peter Elias, professor emeritus of dermatology at UCSF, found that applying petroleum jelly to mice reduced the levels of inflammation in the blood. A small study by Elias and other researchers suggests that this may also apply to humans.
"I don't think we can cure dementia with petroleum jelly," says Abuabara. "But using moisturizers for older people can be beneficial as part of an overall strategy—and it's so cheap, easy, and safe that you can consider it part of your personal care for older people."
So using a moisturizer is a good idea, but how do you choose from the myriad of products available? The products with the strongest moisturizing effects are ointments such as petroleum jelly and oils, says Abuabara. Next come moisturizing creams, then lotions and gels. "It depends on how dry you are and what type of product you prefer," she says. "Everyone is a little different."
Myth #2: If I wear sunscreen all the time, I won't get the vitamin D I need.
While it's true that 90 percent of our vitamin D comes from sun exposure, it's no jailbreak when it comes to sun protection, says Lindy Fox, MD, a professor of dermatology at UCSF who oversees hospital patients. Patients with complex skin diseases. Even with a sun protection regimen, most healthy people have enough incidental sun exposure that they do not need a vitamin D supplement.
Experimental research—studies involving a control group and an experimental group—showed that sunscreen use reduced the absorption of vitamin D, Fox says. But observational studies — in which researchers observe what participants do naturally — show that sunscreen doesn't lower people's vitamin D levels.
This may be because most people do not use enough sunscreen. One ounce—about the size of a bottle—is the amount of sunscreen you need to cover your entire body once, Fox says. If you swim and sweat, reapply sunscreen every two hours. This means that a typical adult on a beach vacation will use a full 3 ounce bottle of sunscreen in one day.
Even if you spend most of the day indoors, UVA rays will penetrate your home, office and car windows unless special UVA blockers are added to the glass. .
Unprotected sun exposure is a known risk factor for skin cancer, so sunscreen is a must for everyone, according to Fox. "You have to use sunscreen every day, just like you brush your teeth," she says. "Sunscreen should be applied to sun-exposed areas, including the face, chest, hands and arms for maximum sun protection." (And don't forget to reapply before your afternoon walk.)
It's also a good idea to supplement your sun protection routine with sun protective clothing such as Lycra and wide-brimmed hats.
Myth # Myth #3: My dark skin protects me from skin cancer, so I don't need sunscreen.
Sorry, but dark-skinned people still need sunscreen, but perhaps not for the same reasons as lighter-skinned people, says Jenna Lester, MD, a professor of dermatology who directs UCSF's Skin of Color program.
Melanin, the natural pigment that gives the skin its color and is more common in people with dark skin, protects against skin cancer, says Lester. This is probably why, although it is more deadly in people diagnosed with melanoma, it is less common in people with dark skin.
As dermatologists know today, sunscreen use does not prevent melanoma in black patients. Lester says that focusing sun protection education primarily on skin cancer prevention overlooks why black people need to wear sunscreen. "We bring the concerns of white patients to the dermatology practice," he says. "When we talk about discoloration or uneven skin tone or the visible signs of sun damage in someone with darker skin, we're not really talking about sun protection."
Regular use of sunscreen can help prevent a number of pigment disorders, including melasma, which causes darker spots or blemishes on the face.
According to Lester, people with darker skin are less likely to wrinkle when exposed to the sun, but can develop an uneven skin tone. "Daily use of sunscreen can help prevent this from ever becoming a problem," she says.
Myth # Myth #4: "Pure," "natural," or organic skin care products are better.
NO. In fact, products advertised as "pure," "natural," or organic are often worse for the skin. "People use products they think are better because they are considered 'clean'," says Fox. "They come to us with diseased skin full of rashes, allergies and other problems."
What should not be on the ingredients list? Be aware of ingredients that may cause skin irritation or reactions, such as fragrances, essential oils, and certain preservatives such as methylisothiazolinone and propylene glycol.
Fox says the ingredients in these products are usually not well researched. Cosmetics do not need to be approved for sale by the US Food and Drug Administration. "The problem with the clean beauty movement," she says, "is that there is no definition of 'clean'."
Here's how this dermatologist defines a good skin care product: It contains ingredients scientifically proven to be good for your skin and not cause allergies or irritation. These include anti-aging retinoids, niacinamide to hydrate and repair the skin's barrier, ceramides to lock in moisture, and skin-softening squalene to improve elasticity and reduce the visible signs of aging.
Citation : Researchers Ask Dermatologists What Skin Care Products We Really Need (August 11, 2023) Retrieved August 11, 2023, from https://medicalxpress.com/news/2023-08-dermatologists-skin-products.html.
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